Detour: Solvang

 

This article was reprinted from Lonely Planet Road Trip: California Highway 1 (2003)

Perhaps the agribusiness and military towns of the dusty Santa Ynez Valley seem a little too down-to-Earth for the less intrepid traveler. Where are the historic downtowns? The antiques? The theme?

Ah, handmade fudge lovers, do not despair: From the warm sulfur springs and hidden nude beach (head south a bit) of Gaviota State Park, hop on to Highway 101 north to Buellton, connecting to Highway 246 east. Then just look for the windmill on the horizon.

 

Solvang (population 5000), aka “Little Denmark,” was founded in 1911 by authentic Danish immigrants, though the lace-trimmed sea of knickknack-packed Victorian overkill didn’t come until later. Folks who insist on calling themselves “travelers” instead of “tourists” may want to stay well away.

 

But Solvang has culture! The Elverhøj Museum (tel 805-686-1211; 1624 Elverhoy Way; admission free; open Wed-Sun 1-4pm) has displays on Danish colonists in California and, on the third week of September, the Danish Days Festival, with costumes, music and a very good excuse to wear that horned Viking helmet hidden away in your closet. It has B&Bs! More than a dozen of them; reserve yours through the Solvang Visitors Bureau (tel 800 468 6765; www.solvangusa.com). Heck, it’s even got a half-decent Spanish colonial church, Mission Santa Inés.

 

Best of all, Solvang has Danish pastries: Arne’s Famous Aebleskivers (tel 805 688 4645; 1672 Copenhagen Drive; sweets $1-5; open 6am-5pm) bakes arguably the best of them all, serving up not only the eponymous delicacy – something like a giant donut hole, often packed with slices of real apple, and always served with jam and powdered sugar – but also strudels, kringles and more.

 

In fact, you might want to pick up a bag of aebleskivers (or, perhaps, some handmade fudge) for your “traveler” friends who insisted on spending the day exploring the real, gritty city of Lompoc. They’re going to need them.